In New England: Mad River Glen - same as it ever was

Editor's note: For Jan. 16 publication

Mad River Glen in Fayston, Vt., hasn't changed much since 1947, when it was started by a bunch of disgruntled traditionalists who thought the skiing at Stowe had become too commercial. (Wonder what they would think today?)

The place is a time machine to the past, owned by a group of 1,905 who, with good reason, don't want anything to change, ever.

You can't improve on perfection.

Low-capacity lifts means fewer skiers (no snowboards allowed) on the trails. That's why, when their iconic single chair - 1948 vintage, the last one surviving in North America - finally wore out and stopped running last April, they replaced it with a brand new single chair that looks exactly like the old one.

The only change is that the lift is now powered by electricity instead of diesel, so there's no exhaust-belching monster rumbling in the background. Even the traditionalists agree that's a change for the better.

Expert skiers love Mad River for its challenging tree skiing and savagely steep black-diamond runs (nothing newfangled, here - you're either real expert or just a wannabe).

But Mad River also has some of the finest intermediate skiing and sweetest beginner terrain in New England. They don't make snow, but they do groom certain trails. Fewer skiers keeps the snow perfect. One run on the uncrowded slopes at MRG is often more satisfying than several runs anywhere else.

Visit www.madriverglen.com or call 802-496-3551.www.madriverglen.com

If you're visiting Mad River Glen, consider staying at Weathertop Mountain Inn (1-800-800-3625; www.weathertopmountaininn.com) on Rte. 17. Innkeepers Lisa & Michael Lang are attentive without being intrusive. The rooms are cozy, quiet and comfortable. They have a wonderful great room with a fireplace and a complete game/exercise room upstairs. They serve a hearty, delicious breakfast early enough to get you first tracks (except on a powder morning when you will want to be in line an hour before the lifts start turning.)

In the evening, the dining room serves guests only. A four-course dinner is $25 per person; taxes and beverages extra. The Langs have lived in Southeast Asia, and for $30 per person they'll take you on an five-course culinary tour of the Southeast Asian country of your choice. That's not exactly traditional New England fare, but who says change can't sometimes be good?

(Read more travel features at www.wickedlocal.com/getaway)