That's a cake? Decorator breaks out of the mold thanks to fondant icing

It can be rolled, twisted, imprinted, tinted or colored to look like a dainty dazzling diamond or a tough tractor.

It has shaped the latest style of sugar art that has bakers from New York to Tulsa trying their hand at carving cakes into just about any shape or form.

And thanks to the Food Network, Susan Crisler, who owns Joe Brews Coffee and Cakes in Germantown Hills, Ill., is making a name for herself in this field, using fondant as a key ingredient for her designs.

"Fondant has the flexibility to shape and mold cakes," said Crisler, who is a new devotee to sculptured cake design since teaching herself to use it by watching the Food Network.

Fondant is basically a cooked mixture of sugar, water and cream of tartar that is used both as candy and icing. Once cooled, it can be beaten and kneaded until it becomes extremely pliable and formed into decorations or, as candy, dipped in chocolate.

Add food coloring and flavors, and you have a versatile product that Crisler has used to wow customers like Diane Cullinan-Oberhelman.

"Susan is a very creative designer of exceptional cakes," said Cullinan-Oberhelman, a repeat customer. "Susan's creativity is amazing as she takes your idea, evolves it into sketches and then the final result: "a uniquely individual cake for that very special person."

It was only two years ago that Crisler, who owns Joe Brews Espresso - a drive-through and walk-in coffee company, decided to experiment with cake-making. By watching and learning from the Food Network, she taught herself to make fancy cakes and then ventured into 3-D and sculptured cakes.

"Now that the cakes have taken off, I'm changing the name to Joe Brews Coffee & Cakes," she said.

Her art is showcased at her cafe and if you didn't know better you wouldn't believe your eyes - that a fluffy handbag with feathers, lace and ribbons, or a fairy castle with towers and windows are all made out of cake. Just cake and fondant.

"And they're 100 percent edible," Crisler says, although too much of that fondant may not do much for one's figure.

"Each cake is custom-made and every customer wants something different," she said.

Before Lent, she made a Mardi Gras cake to be auctioned off for Germantown's Relay for Life. Another satisfied customer left with an open lap-top computer (made of cake of course), with a snap shot of a balance sheet for an accounting director at the American Red Cross.

She also has made an elf's shoe, a haystack with a bandanna and cowboy hat, and quite a few tractors.

"I'm kind of pushing the envelope in cake design here," she said.

It took her a scant three months to gain the confidence to accept an order for a sculpted cake.

"At first it took hours, now I can do a kid's birthday cake in an hour," although she's quick to add, "I'm still learning."

At a bridal show at WeaverRidge Golf Club in January, Crisler said she received a tremendous reception although she had reservations about the wisdom of spending money to display her wares and her skills at the show.

"My cash flow is very low, so $500 for a spot to set up my stuff in the

wedding show was a big investment for me," she said.

Terry Taylor, a manager at WeaverRidge, said Crisler's cake design is

unique.

"Her cake designs are very clever," Taylor said. "There's not too many sculptured cake makers around locally. We got some feedback with people calling and asking for her number after the show."

The risk seems to have paid off for the small business owner since the phone has been ringing with orders from brides-to-be, birthday requests or corporate customers like Chillicothe Metal Co., which recently ordered a cake of a semi truck hauling Caterpillar equipment.

Considering the time and creativity involved in making one of these

cakes, the cost is higher than for traditional cakes.

"They're $200 and up depending on the complexity of the design," Crisler said.

Long before she rolls out the fondant, her creative juices have to flow. Once an order comes in, Crisler has to consider her customer's request, which may be specific or vague. Usually she has one focal point and creates around that, considering the personality or particular interest of the subject.

Many highly sculptured cakes are breathtaking but may not feed the masses, especially for weddings, so customers may still want to order

regular sheet cakes in addition to the star confection.

"It is very common to order sheet cakes to go with your main wedding cake to save costs," Crisler said. "Although some brides will select more elaborate cake designs that are multi-tiered and would serve in excess of 200-plus, I try and discourage brides from ordering a "dummy" cake because sometimes there isn't that much of a price difference. The bulk of cake costs is attributed to the design time taken, not necessarily the hard costs of the cake itself."

Journal Star writer Catharine Schaidle can be reached at cschaidle@pjstar.com.