Restaurant owner's lessons started in grandmother's kitchen

Dominick Bersani learned to cook fine cuisine by watching and working with renowned chefs at Central New York restaurants.

But his lessons about cooking started even before that.

"My education began in my grandmother's kitchen," Bersani said. "That's where my love for food evolved."

Bersani, owner of Dominick's Italian bistro in the small village of Bridgewater, N.Y., said he knows how difficult it is for beginning restaurants to survive.

"I examined the pros and cons, prayed, and purchased the old Gatesdale Dairy Bar," he said.

The dairy bar was renovated into a bistro-style dining room with a 30-foot bar.

The last few years of business have been difficult for Bersani -- he has had to open and close several times.

"Getting noticed is the hardest when you are new, but being consistent with good service and great food is our motto," he said.

Walking into Dominick's, diners are greeted by books by famed chefs such as Emeril Lagasse and Daniel Boulud, and an original menu from the Gatesdale Dairy Bar.

What people want

Bersani said the most popular dish is the Delmonico steak, which is served over roasted garlic and whipped potatoes with a wild mushroom and Guinness sauce.

"I do also have a special creation, which I made and named after my 3-year-old daughter, Angelina," Bersani said. "It is called Chicken Angelina and is made with penne pasta tossed in sautéed chicken breast, grilled seasonal vegetables served with a white wine, basil and cream sauce."

Angelina, aware that there is a dish named after her, prefers her father's ravioli.

She also helps out by playing waitress.

"I want to own a restaurant like Daddy, too," Angelina said.

Bersani's wife, Jennifer, serves as hostess and waits tables.

"Lots of people think that Dominick's is maybe too fancy …," she said. "It's a place for everyone, and everyone is welcomed here."

Local diner Chelsea Jennison agrees.

"I have been coming here since the restaurant opened, and I enjoy the fact that Dominick caters different things like wing night on Thursdays," Jennison said.

Culinary beginnings

At the age of 15, Bersani began working under the tutelage of head chef and owner James Aufmuth of a French-American cuisine restaurant, the Canal Side Inn in Little Falls, N.Y.

"Dominick started as kitchen helper and rose to the rank of sous-chef," Aufmuth said. "He was very hardworking, very artistic and I could tell he always wanted his own restaurant."

After five years at the Canal Side Inn, Bersani worked as head chef at Beardslee Castle near Little Falls.

"I also had the opportunity to work with some celebrity chefs such as Paul Prudhomme and Larry Forgione," Bersani said.

Bersani then moved on to become executive chef at the Horned Dorset in Leonardsville, N.Y., a few miles south of Bridgewater.

"I spent seven wonderful years with them, and the quality of food and service is unbelievable," Bersani said. "It was an honor to work for them."

Now in an area where the population is stagnant, Bersani remains hopeful about future success.

"Italian is in my blood and my culinary experience is French," he said. "Every meal is carefully constructed with passion."

Observer-Dispatch